My neighbor Maria knocked on my door last summer holding a sad, wilted plant with elephant-ear leaves drooping toward the ground. “I killed my taro,” she said with genuine disappointment. “My grandmother grew this in the Philippines for decades. I can’t even keep one alive for a month.”
Turns out, Maria had been treating her taro like a houseplant—letting the soil dry out between waterings. Once I explained that taro wants wet feet (really wet feet), her plants bounced back within weeks. By fall, she harvested enough corms to make poi for her whole family.
Taro is one of the oldest cultivated crops on Earth. Archaeological evidence shows humans domesticated it over 10,000 years ago according to research published in PLOS ONE. Today, this tropical staple feeds over 500 million people worldwide—and you can grow it in your own backyard.
Learning how to grow taro opens the door to a versatile, nutritious crop that thrives in warm, humid climates. Whether you have a wet, marshy area or well-draining upland soil, there’s a taro variety suited to your conditions.
This guide covers everything from selecting healthy corms and preparing your planting site to ongoing care, pest management, and harvesting techniques. We’ll explore both wetland (paddy) and upland (dryland) growing methods so you can succeed regardless of your setup.
What Is Taro?
Taro (Colocasia esculenta) belongs to the Araceae family—the same group as philodendrons and peace lilies. The plant grows from an underground corm (think of it like a bulb) and produces those distinctive heart-shaped leaves that can reach up to three feet long.
Most people recognize taro by its “elephant ear” appearance. The leaves emerge from a central point and arch outward, creating a tropical look that works well in landscaping too.
Taro Corms vs. Taro Leaves: Edible Parts Explained
Here’s what makes taro such a valuable crop: you can eat both the corms and the leaves.
The corm is the starchy root portion that grows underground. It has a nutty, slightly sweet flavor and purple-gray flesh. You’ve probably tasted it in taro bubble tea, poi, or Hawaiian taro chips.
The leaves (called “lu’au” in Hawaiian cuisine) taste similar to spinach when cooked. They’re rich in vitamins A and C plus calcium and iron.
Important warning: Never eat taro raw. Both the corms and leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals that cause intense burning and irritation. Cooking breaks down these compounds completely.
Cultural Significance of Taro Around the World
Taro holds deep meaning in many cultures. In Hawaii, the taro plant represents the ancestor Haloa in creation stories. Pacific Island communities consider it sacred. In parts of Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean, taro remains a dietary staple passed down through generations.
When you grow taro, you’re connecting to thousands of years of agricultural history. That’s pretty special for a backyard crop.
Nutritional Benefits of Growing Your Own Taro
Homegrown taro beats store-bought versions in freshness and nutrition. One cup of cooked taro corm provides:
- 187 calories of slow-burning carbohydrates
- 6.7 grams of fiber
- High potassium (comparable to bananas)
- Vitamin E and B vitamins
The leaves offer even more nutrition—they’re packed with antioxidants and have more protein than the corms.
Types of Taro Varieties
Wetland (Paddy) Taro Varieties
Wetland taro grows in flooded conditions, similar to rice paddies. These varieties produce the largest, most flavorful corms.
Popular wetland varieties include:
- Bun Long: Produces white-fleshed corms favored for poi
- Lehua Maoli: A traditional Hawaiian variety with pink flesh
- Moi: Known for its creamy texture
Upland (Dryland) Taro Varieties
Upland taro grows in regular garden soil without flooding. These varieties tolerate drier conditions and work better for most backyard growers.
Common upland varieties include:
- Dasheen: The most widely grown variety in the continental US
- Eddoe: Produces smaller corms with excellent flavor
- Bun Long Nung: Adapted upland version of the wetland favorite
Ornamental Taro Varieties
Some taro varieties are grown mainly for their stunning foliage:
- Black Magic: Dark purple-black leaves
- Illustris: Green leaves with black markings
- Mojito: Lime green leaves with dark speckling
These ornamental types are still edible, though they’re selected for looks rather than corm production.
How to Choose the Right Variety for Your Climate
Tropical Climates: You can grow any taro variety year-round. Wetland types will give you the biggest harvests if you have access to consistent water.
Subtropical Climates: Stick with upland varieties or grow wetland types in containers. Plant after your last frost date and harvest before temperatures drop below 50°F.
Temperate Climates (Container Growing): Choose fast-maturing upland varieties like dasheen or eddoe. Start plants indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost, then move containers outside when nights stay above 55°F.
Climate and Growing Conditions for Taro
Ideal Temperature Range for Taro Growth
Taro loves heat. The sweet spot is between 77°F and 95°F. Growth slows below 68°F and stops completely below 50°F.
A gardener friend in Georgia told me she watches the overnight lows like a hawk. “When the forecast shows temps dipping into the 40s, I throw a blanket over my taro or drag the containers inside. One cold snap can set the plants back weeks.”
Humidity and Moisture Requirements
High humidity makes taro happy. If you live in a dry climate, mist your plants regularly or group them together to create a humid microclimate.
For soil moisture, think bog garden rather than vegetable patch. Taro can literally grow in standing water. Even upland varieties need consistently moist soil—never let them dry out.
Sunlight Needs: Full Sun vs. Partial Shade
Taro handles a range of light conditions:
- Full sun (6+ hours): Fastest growth but needs more water
- Partial shade (4-6 hours): Works well, especially in hot climates
- Full shade: Plants survive but produce smaller corms
In the Deep South and desert Southwest, afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch during the hottest months.
USDA Hardiness Zones for Growing Taro
Taro grows as a perennial in zones 9-11. In zones 7-8, you can treat it as an annual or overwinter the corms indoors. Gardeners in zones 6 and colder should grow taro in containers that come inside before frost.
Can You Grow Taro in Cold Climates?
Yes! I’ve talked to growers in Minnesota and Vermont who successfully harvest taro every year. The secret is container growing and a warm start indoors.
Start corms indoors under grow lights 8 weeks before your last frost. Move containers outside once nighttime temps stay above 55°F. Bring them back in when fall temperatures drop. It takes extra effort, but it works.
When to Plant Taro
Planting Timeline for Tropical Regions
In true tropical climates (South Florida, Hawaii, Puerto Rico), plant taro any time of year. Most growers plant in spring for a winter harvest, but succession planting every 2-3 months provides year-round harvests.
Planting Timeline for Subtropical Regions
In the Gulf Coast, coastal California, and similar zones, plant taro after your last frost date—typically March through May. This gives plants 7-12 months of warm weather to mature before the next cold season.
Starting Taro Indoors in Temperate Climates
Start corms indoors 6-8 weeks before your last expected frost. Use 6-inch pots filled with moist potting mix. Keep soil temperatures above 70°F—a seedling heat mat helps.
Transplant outdoors when nighttime temps consistently stay above 55°F. In most northern zones, this means late May or early June.
Signs Your Soil Is Ready for Planting
Don’t plant taro until:
- Soil temperature reaches at least 65°F (use a soil thermometer)
- Danger of frost has passed
- Soil is workable and not waterlogged from spring rains
How to Prepare for Planting Taro
Selecting Healthy Taro Corms or Huli (Tops)
You can start taro from whole corms or from “huli”—the top portion of a harvested corm with some stem attached.
Look for corms that are:
- Firm with no soft spots
- Free of mold or rot
- About the size of a small apple or larger
- Showing signs of sprouting (white buds at the top)
Avoid corms with:
- Cuts or wounds
- Musty smell
- Shriveled appearance
Where to Buy Taro for Planting
Finding planting stock can be tricky. Check these sources:
- Asian grocery stores (corms in the produce section often sprout)
- Hawaiian plant suppliers online
- Local farmers markets in diverse communities
- Specialty nurseries that focus on tropical plants
Pre-Sprouting Taro Corms Before Planting
Pre-sprouting gives your plants a head start. Here’s how:
- Place corms in a shallow tray with 1-2 inches of water
- Keep in a warm spot (75-85°F)
- Change water every few days
- Wait for white roots and green sprouts to emerge (usually 2-3 weeks)
- Plant once sprouts are 2-4 inches tall
Tools and Supplies You Will Need
Gather these before planting day:
- Shovel or garden fork for digging
- Compost or aged manure
- Balanced fertilizer (10-10-10)
- Mulch (straw, wood chips, or leaves)
- Drip irrigation or soaker hose (for upland growing)
- Large containers if not planting in-ground
Soil Requirements for Growing Taro
Ideal Soil Type and Texture
Taro prefers rich, loamy soil that holds moisture well. Heavy clay works surprisingly well since it stays wet—just amend it with compost to improve texture.
Sandy soil drains too fast for taro. If that’s what you have, either amend heavily with organic matter or switch to container growing.
Optimal Soil pH for Taro
Taro grows best in slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Test your soil before planting. If it’s too alkaline, work in sulfur or acidic compost. If too acidic, add lime.
Soil Amendments and Organic Fertilizers
Work these amendments into your planting bed:
- 4-6 inches of compost
- Aged manure (cow, chicken, or rabbit)
- Bone meal for phosphorus
- Kelp meal for trace minerals
Skip fresh manure—it can burn tender roots.
Preparing Raised Beds for Taro
Raised beds work great for upland taro if you line them to retain moisture. Use pond liner or heavy plastic, poke a few drainage holes at the 4-inch level, then fill with amended soil.
This setup keeps soil consistently moist without becoming a breeding ground for mosquitoes.
How to Plant Taro Step-by-Step
Wetland (Paddy) Planting Method
Creating a Flooded Taro Patch
If you have a naturally wet area, you’re in luck. Otherwise, you can create a small paddy using:
- A kids’ plastic wading pool
- A lined garden bed
- A natural low spot with clay soil
Line the area with pond liner if needed, add 8-12 inches of rich soil, then flood with 2-4 inches of water.
Water Depth and Flow Management
Keep water levels between 2-6 inches deep. If possible, create slow water flow—this prevents mosquito breeding and keeps oxygen levels high.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep in the mud, spaced 18-24 inches apart.
Upland (Dryland) Planting Method
Mounding and Hilling Techniques
Create raised mounds 6-8 inches high and 12 inches wide. This improves drainage while still allowing deep watering. Space mounds 24-36 inches apart.
Plant one corm per mound, 3-4 inches deep with the sprouting end facing up.
Irrigation Setup for Dryland Taro
Set up drip irrigation or soaker hoses before planting. Taro needs 1-2 inches of water per week—more in hot weather. A thick layer of mulch helps retain moisture between waterings.
Proper Spacing and Depth Guidelines
- Wetland taro: 18-24 inches apart, 2-3 inches deep in mud
- Upland taro: 24-36 inches apart, 3-4 inches deep
- Container taro: One plant per 15-gallon container
Companion Planting for Taro
Taro plays well with:
- Ginger (shares similar water needs)
- Banana trees (provides shade and wind protection)
- Sweet potato (covers ground between taro plants)
- Edible hibiscus (attracts beneficial insects)
Avoid planting near drought-tolerant crops—they need opposite watering schedules.
How to Grow Taro in Containers
Container growing works great for small spaces and cold climates. Here’s how to do it right.
Best Containers for Growing Taro
Large Pots and Tubs: Use containers at least 15 gallons for upland varieties. Half whiskey barrels work perfectly.
Self-Watering Containers: These maintain consistent moisture automatically. Great for busy gardeners or vacation-proofing your plants.
DIY Pond Containers for Wetland Taro: Use large plastic storage tubs (30+ gallons). Don’t drill drainage holes. Fill with rich soil and maintain 2-4 inches of standing water.
Container Soil Mix Recipe for Taro
Mix together:
- 50% quality potting soil
- 30% compost
- 20% perlite or vermiculite
- 1 cup slow-release fertilizer per container
Step-by-Step Container Planting Guide
- Fill container to 4 inches below the rim
- Create a shallow hole in the center
- Place sprouted corm with growth point up
- Cover with 3-4 inches of soil mix
- Water thoroughly until water runs from drainage holes
- Add 2 inches of mulch
- Place in sunny location
Overwintering Container Taro Indoors
Before first frost:
- Move containers to a sunny indoor spot
- Reduce watering (soil should stay moist but not wet)
- Stop fertilizing until spring
- Keep temperatures above 55°F
- Expect slower growth but plants will survive
Or dig up corms, brush off soil, and store in slightly moist peat moss at 50-55°F.
Caring for Your Taro Plants
Watering Requirements and Schedule
Wetland Taro Water Management: Maintain 2-6 inches of standing water. Top off as needed—daily in hot weather. Flush with fresh water weekly to prevent stagnation.
Upland Taro Irrigation Tips: Water deeply 2-3 times per week. Soil should never dry out. During heat waves, daily watering may be necessary.
Fertilizing Taro for Maximum Growth
Taro is a heavy feeder. Apply balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) every 4-6 weeks during the growing season. Side-dress with compost monthly for organic growing.
Yellow leaves often signal nitrogen deficiency. Boost feeding if you notice this.
Mulching for Moisture Retention and Weed Control
Apply 4-6 inches of organic mulch around upland taro plants. Straw, wood chips, and shredded leaves all work well. Keep mulch a few inches away from stems to prevent rot.
Managing Weeds Around Taro Plants
Weeds compete for water and nutrients. Hand-pull weeds when small. Thick mulch prevents most weed growth. For wetland taro, flooding controls weeds naturally.
Recognizing Healthy Taro Plant Growth
Healthy taro shows:
- Large, upright leaves with good color
- New leaves emerging regularly from the center
- Thick, sturdy stems
- No yellowing or brown spots
Expect plants to reach 3-5 feet tall at maturity.
Common Taro Pests and Diseases
Identifying Common Taro Pests
Taro Beetle: Adults chew holes in leaves; larvae damage corms underground. Look for irregular holes and wilting plants.
Aphids: Small clusters of green or black insects on leaf undersides. They spread viruses and cause curled, distorted growth.
Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippled, yellowing leaves. Look for fine webbing on leaf undersides.
Taro Planthopper: Brown insects that suck plant sap and spread diseases. Check stems and leaf bases.
Recognizing Taro Diseases
Taro Leaf Blight (Phytophthora colocasiae): The most serious taro disease. Causes purple-brown lesions on leaves that expand rapidly in wet weather. Can destroy entire plantings.
Pythium Rot: Soft, mushy corms with foul smell. Caused by waterlogged soil with poor drainage.
Dasheen Mosaic Virus: Yellow-green mosaic patterns on leaves, stunted growth. Spread by aphids. No cure—remove infected plants.
Organic Pest and Disease Control Methods
- Neem oil spray for aphids and mites
- Hand-pick beetles and drop in soapy water
- Copper fungicide for early blight prevention
- Biological controls like beneficial nematodes for soil pests
Prevention Strategies for Healthy Crops
Prevention beats treatment every time:
- Start with disease-free planting material
- Space plants for good air circulation
- Avoid overhead watering on leaves
- Remove and destroy infected plant material
- Rotate planting locations yearly
How to Grow Taro Organically
Sourcing Organic Taro Planting Material
Find certified organic corms through specialty suppliers or save your own from previous harvests. Some conventional grocery store taro can be used—it’s not certified organic but hasn’t been treated with sprouting inhibitors.
Natural Soil Amendments and Fertilizers
Build healthy soil with:
- Homemade compost
- Fish emulsion (monthly foliar spray)
- Seaweed extract (trace minerals)
- Worm castings (gentle, slow-release nutrition)
Companion Planting Strategies
Interplant with:
- Marigolds (repel pests)
- Basil (attracts beneficial insects)
- Lemongrass (deters aphids naturally)
Organic Pest and Disease Management
Rely on prevention and biological controls:
- Encourage beneficial insects with diverse plantings
- Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for caterpillars
- Use copper spray preventively for fungal diseases
- Release ladybugs for aphid control
Crop Rotation for Sustainable Taro Growing
Don’t plant taro in the same spot more than 2 years running. Rotate with unrelated crops like:
- Legumes (beans, peas)—they add nitrogen
- Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli)
- Nightshades (tomatoes, peppers)
This breaks disease cycles and balances soil nutrients.
When and How to Harvest Taro
Signs Your Taro Is Ready to Harvest
Watch for these maturity signs:
- Leaves yellow and begin dying back
- Plant growth slows significantly
- Corm tops push up through soil surface
- Plants have been growing 7-12 months
Harvesting Taro Corms
Tools for Harvesting: Gather a digging fork, sharp knife, and bucket or basket.
Step-by-Step Digging Technique:
- Cut back all foliage to 6 inches above ground
- Water the area if soil is dry (makes digging easier)
- Insert fork 12 inches from plant center
- Loosen soil by rocking fork gently
- Lift entire corm mass
- Remove side corms (cormels) for eating or replanting
- Save the main corm top (huli) for replanting
Harvesting Taro Leaves
You can harvest leaves throughout the growing season without hurting corm production. Cut outer leaves at the base, leaving 3-4 inner leaves intact. Never take more than one-third of leaves at a time.
How Long Does Taro Take to Mature?
- Wetland taro: 9-15 months
- Upland taro: 7-12 months
- Container taro: 8-10 months
Larger corm varieties take longer than small-corm eddoe types.
Storing and Curing Your Taro Harvest
Curing Taro Corms After Harvest
Cure corms for 1-2 weeks before storage:
- Brush off loose soil (don’t wash)
- Spread in single layer in shaded area
- Allow skin to dry and toughen
- Check for soft spots and discard damaged corms
Ideal Storage Conditions for Taro Corms
Store cured corms at:
- Temperature: 45-55°F
- Humidity: 85-90%
- Ventilation: Good air circulation
A root cellar or cool basement works well. Avoid refrigerators—they’re too cold and dry.
Freezing and Preserving Taro
To freeze:
- Peel and cube corms
- Boil until fork-tender (about 15 minutes)
- Cool completely
- Pack in freezer bags, removing air
- Freeze up to 6 months
Cooked taro also cans well using a pressure canner.
How Long Will Homegrown Taro Last?
- Room temperature: 1-2 weeks
- Cool storage (50°F): 2-4 months
- Frozen: 6 months
- Canned: 1 year or more
Signs of Spoilage to Watch For
Discard corms that show:
- Soft, mushy spots
- Mold growth
- Off or sour smell
- Slimy texture
When in doubt, throw it out. Spoiled taro isn’t worth the risk.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Taro
How long does it take to grow taro?
Taro takes between 7 and 15 months to mature depending on the variety and growing conditions. Upland (dryland) varieties mature faster at 7-12 months. Wetland (paddy) varieties take 9-15 months but produce larger corms. Container-grown taro typically matures in 8-10 months.
Can you grow taro from a store-bought corm?
Yes, you can grow taro from corms purchased at grocery stores—especially Asian markets. Look for firm corms with no soft spots or mold. The best candidates have small buds or “eyes” visible at the top, similar to potato eyes.
Can you grow taro indoors?
You can grow taro indoors, though it’s more challenging than outdoor growing. Taro needs warmth, high humidity, and consistent moisture—conditions that require some effort to maintain inside a home.
What should you not plant near taro?
Avoid planting taro near drought-tolerant crops that need dry soil between waterings. These include:
- Lavender: Hates wet feet and will develop root rot
- Rosemary: Prefers dry, Mediterranean conditions
- Succulents and cacti: Opposite water needs
- Sage: Thrives in well-drained, drier soil
- Most Mediterranean herbs: Need less water than taro requires
How much water does taro need?
Taro needs more water than almost any common garden crop. Wetland varieties grow best in 2-6 inches of standing water. Upland varieties need soil that stays consistently moist—never allowing it to dry out.
Is taro toxic if not cooked properly?
Yes, raw taro is toxic and should never be eaten uncooked. Both the corms and leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals—needle-shaped compounds that cause intense burning, swelling, and irritation of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract.
Final Thought
Growing taro connects you to one of humanity’s oldest food crops. Whether you’re making poi, adding tropical flair to your garden, or building food security with a reliable staple crop, taro rewards your effort with generous harvests.
Start with a few corms this spring. Pay attention to water (more is almost always better), keep plants fed, and watch for pests. Before you know it, you’ll be harvesting your own taro—and maybe helping a neighbor learn how, just like I did with Maria.
